VidFlip: Vogue Hommes No. 2

mondblog VidFlip: Vogue Hommes Japan No. 2 from Raymond Navarro on Vimeo.

Vogue Hommes Japan Issue No. I was no disappointment. Finishing the first flip through the premiere issue, you pretty much know it was a must-have and that you’d probably got a new favorite mag in your hands.. that you likely can’t read. The cover was so obviously foreign, so definitely refreshing and Hedi Slimane's photography, Nicola Formichetti's styling and the altogether moment in men's fashion seemed in sync with Ash in “Samurai Fiction.”

With last year's American presidential election gaining international attention and the last superpower falling into deeper debt/shit, one could’ve spotted the American trend just as Luis Venegas' decided on an all-American Electric Youth! Issue, Vogue Hommes Japan's staff drafted the The Americas issue's editorial calendar and Raf Simons sent down red, white and blue color-blocked suit.

To say the least, the issue is better than good. Department pages make references to designers like Romain Kremer, Bernhard Willhelm and Mihara Yasuhiro, and tell on Gang Gang Dance, Ricardi Tisci and American designers Tim Hamilton, Robert Geller and Patrik Ervell. Shun Watanabe styles the proclaimed "It Boys" Simon Nessman, Matvey Lykov, Jethro Cave along with, of course, one or two very exposed others and the Venetia Scott’s photography and Alister Mackie styling combination steals best editorial with simple, steel portraiture of some numb, resilient Euro-looking youth clad in — what else but — stars and stripes.

The "Go West, Young Man" ed' shot by Slimane, styled by Formichetti had its moments with Hood By Air masking and the captures of a brazen bald eagle and limp American flag waving somewhere up above. The main detraction was the modeling; it was — truthfully — awkward, amateur and came with no sense of personality. Some were, in fact, kind-of candid shots but their with all the options they had, why they had to put so many... dull, dead shots must be beyond me. It seemed the number of photos on the 28-page spread also diluted the series and elements just didn't seem to align well enough to leave too grande of an impression.

The "Generation Soul The Season 09" casting, though, was, man, so tight. Marcus Lloyd and Saleiu Jalloh from red alongside DNA's Marcel Castenmiller made a harmony in Josh Olins' studio shoot. Other models in the shoot, Shih Han, Ali Mehrabian and VNY's Robert, struck some effortless looks and poses in N.Hoolywood, Raf Simons, KTZ, Commes des Garçons Plus Homme, Damir Doma, Maison Martin Margiela, Number (N)ine and damn.. Patrik Ervell, Marc by Marc, John Lawrence Sullivan, Thom Browne.. I mean, fuck. What’s good? What’s there.

The minimal print design associated with many men's magazines isn't too exciting but still not at all offensive. Set designs by Gary Card, though, are some of the more striking visual appeals The Americas issue had to offer. The Tim Burton-inspired looking hands cradling designer scents is somewhere at the top of my list for shortest, most memorable editorials featuring zero models.

One strange, can’t help but notice promotion made its way as an editorial in Vogue Hommes Japan. My guess is Dior Homme paid for the six-page advertisement/editorial styled by Shun Watanabe and shot by Karim Sadli. The clothes looked better than ever before, and I was surprised to see something mildly hot help in heat up the issue. With sinking sales and dips in advertising, we'll likely be seeing the likes of these promotional editorials in other fashion publications. I still can’t decide if I mind. Guess not too much.

Well, check out the ‘flip and enjoy. And if someone finds the editorial feature on Raf Simons' Art List, please forward it my way. I'm missing out on so much not with Vogue Hommes Japan not knowing Japanese.

VidFlip: RUSSH #25

mondblog VidFlip: RUSSH #25 from Raymond Navarro on Vimeo.

Heard of Russh? — the Australian monthly publication for young women, cousin to Teen Vogue and Nylon. If it were the cousin of Nylon, references to houses such as Givenchy, Balmain and Rick Owens would definitely make Paris Vogue the influential sexy, single aunt to the down under publication. A good counterpart comparison would be its the "edgier" side of a magazine like the Italian Flair publication.

The first issue of Russh I’d ever obtained was in the summer of 2007 in Los Angeles not far from the sidewalk of stars at a newsstand where the pavement was hot, the breeze was cool and trannies on the street hit on you with no shame. What first grabbed me about Russh were the several candid, backstage photos of the girls (then a lot of Lily, Sasha, Tanya, Agyness and so on) throughout the entire magazine. The girls were fresh, the tips were spot on and trendy pulled of well. This in sum with the several Australian brands unbeknownst to an American sure spiced it up.

Shopping tips on how to “pinch the look” and numerous shot-outs to its advertisers in this issue filled the issue. Brands like Willow and Kate Sylvester find themselves in several of the editorial shots while also in the thick of the ad pages. The relationship between the content and advertising was a little too obvious in this issue but every magazine has got their loyalties. In a tough time for ad sales, publications have got to give reason to advertisers to hold on tight and ride out the economic ups and downs.

Design in the magazine is simplistic, minimalistic. Just about all text is in black ink, headlines in a bold serif'd type giving it a "tabloid"-like look said friend Alexandra felt. No daring or bold designs here — no bad design either.

The editorials —highly feminine, pretty girly, you could say — are sexy and quite distinct from editorials in Nylon, Teen Vogue or Seventeen. Strange and sophisticated references in issue #25, like those of Veruschka and Syd Barrett, also help give the publication an identity perceptibly different from other teen ‘zines.

The cost of clothing pieces in the “pinch the look” department pages do make one wonder, though. Who at a young age is really affording that $110 Tigerlily zip-up-the-middle one-piece and the $400 silence is golden slashed leather top? It’s a clue the magazines aims for a diverse (yet mostly young) age demographic and for reasons of taste, it can sometimes do a magazine better.
The content inside is consistently young and fresh, just like its models and features on designers like Christopher Kane and those at Preen make for a simple, enjoyable read for those outside the young age group. If you happen to dig it, look it for out on newsstands and bookstores, it’s popularity is beginning to spread and with good reason. Just wish I’d known of the Karlie cover last issue — damn.

VidFlip: L'Officiel Hommes, Issue 12

L'OFFICIEL HOMMES, Issue 12 from Raymond Navarro on Vimeo.

While not totally new, I found L'Officiel's issue 12 to be relevant enough (and certainly good enough) to wrap up the sportswear theme. Most of the magazine comes shot and styled by former Jil Sander designer Milan Vukmirovic, with the exception of the Moto Cross editorial shot by Nick Clements. Some of the visuals tend to be more literal of the sport sense but all inspiring, nonetheless. Enjoy.

VidFlip: Acne SS/08 Lookbook

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For further information on Acne, read about how the label is bringing Stockholm to to the states with their first American studio at Refinery29. The article includes an interview with creative director Jonny Johannsson and photos of the new studio store.