Showing posts with label FW0809. Show all posts
Showing posts with label FW0809. Show all posts

20.2.09

VidFlip: Zoo Magazine #21



VidFlip: Zoo Magazine, #21 from Raymond Navarro on Vimeo.

This will be a memorable one.
The issue's so thick it jostled all over the place.


Wearing a dress from the Maison Martin Margiela Artisan collection, Alana Zimmerman
gasps at the state of fashion as people grasp on the fact there are certain things people can
and can't afford. Now feel the hangover, people.

Read about the "troubling" signs around the mens and womenswear shows in New York
from [again] The New York Times. Guy Trebay's detais in his diary on what he describes as the
"artifical urgency" and the recession's effects on New York Fashion Week here.


22.12.08

VidFlip: L'Officiel Hommes, Issue 12




While not totally new, I found L'Officiel's issue 12 to be relevant enough (and certainly good enough) to wrap up the sportswear theme. Most of the magazine comes shot and styled by former Jil Sander designer Milan Vukmirovic, with the exception of the Moto Cross editorial shot by Nick Clements. Some of the visuals tend to be more literal of the sport sense but all inspiring, nonetheless. Enjoy.

13.12.08

Where Sports Meets Fashion


The blatant sportswear influence in Miuccia Prada's Miu Miu FW0809 collection — color-blocked jumpsuits, long-sleeve netted onesies and track jackets worn with cone-shaped heels and bright skullcaps — made some mixed reactions amongst friends and peers in the "fashion community," but I knew Miuccia's athletic expression in the hardly wearable clothes would serve as inspiration to me and many others.

The influence in design and function of sport is actually quite pragmatic and refreshing, two elements I'd believe to be necessary for selling clothes at a time when 1) economy's in the dump and 2) retail sales are down, way down. And while maybe none of the aforementioned designers' collections are exactly
"wearable," looks from designers like Raf Simons sleek, slim silhouettes for men, Balenciaga's austere, architectural forms and Undercover's spacey, tailored outerwear could be, has been, styled in sporty fashion in magazines. The look is more than believable, it's a reality. A sexy one at that.

And thank be to independent designers like Romain Kremer and Louis Goldin who on their own have integrated the aesthetics of sport making the surreal sleek linebacker-chic a reality on the runway. In them lies fashion's actual optimism; their exploratory trips on what's possible and "impossible" makes dreams played out in editorials and from your closets onto the streets.

Maybe you buy this, maybe you don't, but this is the first set of three posts dedicated to you finding an inspiration, or at least appreciation, for what's sporty in fashion. On the next update, find store items — new, vintage, slightly pricey and those comparatively cheap — from a list of international shipping stores.

There's so much to look to!

13.11.08

About Complex Geometries Video, plus interview with designer Clayton Evans


Light, easy to move designs with versatility in mind stay quite well defines the Complex Geometries aesthetic.
The collection “inspired by the culture of mobility, exploring the pragmatics and aesthetics of travel” has pieces
ranging from draped, dyed tees and dresses to scarfed-tops and hooded jackets. They’ve just recently put up
their SS09 collection up on their website, so you can check it out for yourself. Photos accompanied with a short
video by Jason Last featuring the soon-to-come collection shows off the springwear pretty damn well. With the
help of friendly Adam DeKeyser at CG, I was able to get some questions to the designer Clayton Evans about the
FW0809 collection, his latest SS09 collection and the direction of Complex Geometries.



Tell us about the inspiration behind the collection.

The theme for fall was “Sex of the Ancients”. To be honest, the title came first
and we TRIED to
figure out what it meant. So we pulled in all sorts of elements relating to sex and gender in the past.


There seemed to bit an element of bondage and "binding" along with
traditional Japanese costumesilhouettes;is this fair to say?

The binding and bondage elements are related to the sexual theme, in probably the most literal way.
The Japanese elements are more removed from their origin, referencing other styles that
reference Japanese silhouettes. Kind of like the game “Broken Telephone” where you whisper
something to the person next to you and they pass
it down the line until the final message has nothing to
do with the original.


It seems you've got a much larger collection this coming spring. How has the
process of making a collectionbecome more efficient over the last couple years?

Well, it definitely gets easier as the style because more and more defined. And having a great team helps
things to get done faster (and better and more creatively). We also reissued a dozen of the strongest unisex t-shirt
styles from previous collections.


Are there any prospects of CG expanding the line to include — to say, shoes, underwear or denim?
Shoes, yes. Very soon, we hope. That's always a problem when we come to the end of the collection and realize
that we just can't find the footwear that adds
the "write" [or right] punctuation to the statement. There's often denim
in the collection, but I don't think we'd ever do a “denim collection” per se. When we use denim, its for a specific reason,
not just to
fit into a defined market. And underwear, its possible. I'm more interested in the way people use their clothing
to communicate, and underwear doesn't really communicate much except
in intimate circumstances. If we were exploring
that kind of communication in
a collection, we'd try a few pieces, but not just as a way to pump up sales


There's a much-flattering juxtaposition between pieces the SS09 collection involving
fabrics,fits and color. What can you tell about the fabrics used?

We try to balance every element in a collection. So, for every smooth and shiny surface, we try to have
a soft and rumpled one to contrast. There are garment
dyed cotton jerseys, PU coated linens, washed
silks and shiny nylons.



Are there any traditions when it comes to the ethic of Complex Geometries design?
Lots of playing around. When we make a sample, we try it on every way we possibly can. Its that kind of experimentation
that leads to new ideas.



Is there anything you could tell us about the audience(s) you try to reach? Is there a person,
or persons, CG has in mind when designing?

No, not really. Diversity is what we aspire to.

How much direct response to you get about your clothing and designs from buyers? Have there been any notable
compliments and/or clues recently that what you're doing is "right" — "with-it," yet still forward?

Sales certainly are the most notable compliments. You know you're doing something right when fashionable consumers are still
excitedto buy the same styles season after season.
It was new enough to catch their attention and strong enough to maintain it.

readers

archives

Tags